Imagine stumbling upon a hidden Caribbean gem that's blissfully off the beaten path, where time seems to slow down and nature reigns supreme—but with big changes looming that could transform it forever. That's Dominica in a nutshell, and trust me, you won't want to miss experiencing it before the crowds arrive in 2026!
It all started on a serene Sunday when I found myself perched at a simple roadside eatery named Islet View, overlooking the charming town of Castle Bruce. From our elevated spot, we gazed down at the powerful Atlantic waves crashing into the bay below. My guide, Marcus Gabriel, and I skipped the church service that day—he mentioned he felt spiritually fulfilled without it—and yet, a sense of contentment washed over us anyway.
We'd just placed our order for lunch—a hearty marlin steak drenched in Creole sauce for just £12 (guide.dm)—when the local pastor entered, draped in a flowing white robe and sporting pricey soft leather shoes. At first, we thought he might offer a blessing or collect a donation, but he'd clearly already done well with his congregation. Instead, he gave us a warm smile, quickly downed a generous rum, and glided back out as smoothly as he'd arrived.
Soon, our meal arrived, and the pastor's quick refreshment faded from our minds. It wasn't until later that the irony struck me: on an island rather unoriginally dubbed Dominica by Christopher Columbus during his Sunday voyage in 1493, here I was embarking on my own cross-island adventure on the very same day of the week.
Let's clear up any confusion right away—Dominica isn't the larger Dominican Republic but a compact, 30-mile-long mountainous paradise nestled between Martinique and Guadeloupe in the eastern Caribbean. Its history is a colorful tapestry of British and French influences, culminating in independence in 1978, and what makes it truly special is its thriving indigenous community, the Kalinago people, who add a layer of authentic cultural depth unlike many other Caribbean spots.
What you need to know
Location: Dominica lies in the Lesser Antilles, tucked between Guadeloupe and Martinique in the eastern Caribbean.
Getting there: The fastest route is via Barbados (return flights from £658 via britishairways.com), then hop on InterCaribbean (return from £276 via intercaribbean.com).
Insider tip: Even in the dry season from December to May, expect brief but intense showers multiple times a day. The sun quickly dries everything up afterward, so pack a lightweight waterproof jacket—it's non-negotiable!
With its dense forests and scant beaches, Dominica stands out as an atypical Caribbean getaway for those chasing endless sunshine and sandy stretches. But here's where it gets controversial: is this about to shift dramatically?
On my British Airways flight to Barbados (where I switched to InterCaribbean for the leg to Douglas Charles airport in Dominica), the in-flight entertainment kicked off with a promo video showcasing Dominica's verdant rainforests and highlighting its bold new attraction—a thrilling cable car journey to the infamous Boiling Lake, a volcanic wonder that lives up to its name. Clearly, significant funds are pouring in to make this happen.
The Boiling Lake, located in the breathtaking Morne Trois Pitons National Park (image courtesy of ALAMY), is a flooded volcanic vent that stays mostly just below boiling. It's a true marvel of nature, and accessing it has long required a grueling three-hour hike each way. But soon, that will change with the cable car, offering an effortless ride through the treetops.
This ambitious project, along with an upcoming international airport, drew me to this authentic Creole-speaking enclave of the Caribbean—one so untouched that it served as a filming location for the Pirates of the Caribbean blockbusters with barely any alterations needed.
• Dive into our comprehensive Caribbean travel guide (https://www.thetimes.com/travel/destinations/caribbean-travel)
I began my journey in Portsmouth, about an hour from the current airport on the northern coast, facing the tranquil Caribbean Sea. Once the British capital (later moved south to Roseau by the French), Portsmouth feels like a laid-back, slightly rundown coastal town with a sheltered bay dotted with boats and a narrow strip of soft, dusky sand. There's some local tourism, especially at Purple Turtle Beach, but the sight of a couple of large boats stranded on the shore due to a storm makes swimming less inviting.
Dominica’s challenging landscape
I stayed at the Champs hotel, perched high on a hillside with stunning views of rooftops and the ocean framed by rainbows (B&B doubles from £186; hotelthechamps.com).
Chatting with the hotel's long-time owner, Lise Van de Kamp, I inquired about the neighboring roofless homes. She explained it was the aftermath of Hurricane Maria, after which many owners relocated abroad. This was a common tale on the island: the 2017 storm wrecked or demolished 95% of the housing, marking a turning point for many Dominicans who saw no future there.
Things are gradually improving, yet the older residents often reminisce about pre-hurricane times, when plantations of bananas and cocoa thrived. Dominica's rugged terrain and wild rainforests, however, made large-scale farming tough, and today, evidence of those plantations is scarce. Still, the soil is so rich that locals joke not to stand still too long, or you might sprout roots!
Now, the island is pivoting toward tourism, embracing its abundant natural wonders: nine active volcanoes, 365 freshwater rivers, the one-of-a-kind Boiling Lake, vibrant birdlife, and countless waterfalls.
• Check out 28 top Caribbean hotel picks (https://www.thetimes.com/travel/destinations/caribbean-travel/best-caribbean-hotels-d63ttrzc6)
My initial foray into these wonders happened that first morning in the hills above Portsmouth. The trail to Syndicate Falls winds through fruit trees laden with guava, passion fruit, and mango, alive with the chatter of Sisserou parrots. It's a quick 15-minute hike, crisscrossing the rushing river, leading to a spectacular 100-foot waterfall plunging into a turbulent pool that creates its own swirling vortex. Diving in for a swim, buffeted by the roaring water, made me forget all about my long journey.
Syndicate was blissfully empty, unlike the serene Indian River back in Portsmouth, featured in Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man's Chest. Here, boatmen ferry a constant stream of movie fans through dense mangroves that arch overhead like a living tunnel, revealing massive root systems and ghostly white crabs. We passed a stilted shack—Calypso's hideout from the film—and docked at a rustic bar where a glass of "bush rum" costs just £1.50. On the return, our guide Ash skillfully crafted hummingbirds from reeds.
From Portsmouth, I traveled southwest to Roseau with Marcus, hugging the dramatic Atlantic coastline. We passed the massive construction site for the new Chinese-funded airport, slated for 2027, which lay silent on that Sunday. We paused for a seaside coffee in Calibishie, watching pelicans plunge for fish and fishermen easily scoop up octopuses right from the shore.
After the pastor's rum encounter near Castle Bruce, I took a refreshing dip in Emerald River, one of the island's stunning waterfall pools. It's gentler and more picturesque than Syndicate, with some development making it accessible to day-trippers from cruise ships. By evening, though, I had it entirely to myself.
(Andrew Eames in Dominica)
Cruise ships dominate the skyline in Roseau, a lively, vibrant expansion of Portsmouth, with a few tall buildings and a waterfront promenade bustling with souvenir stands. Its standout accommodation is a stylish hotel in a restored 18th-century fort, a favorite among American divers, conveniently near the cruise dock (B&B doubles from £177; fortyounghotel.com).
Roseau is compact, and when two ships dock (the max it can handle), they double its population. These daily visitors are prime targets for the cable car, with its base station just a 30-minute inland drive.
• Explore 21 top Caribbean cruise options (https://www.thetimes.com/travel/destinations/caribbean-travel/the-best-caribbean-cruises-gzsq8txfx)
Dominica's extraordinary Boiling Lake, typically simmering just below the boiling point, is a flooded volcanic fumarole—a natural vent where hot gases and steam escape from the earth's crust. Until now, reaching it meant a tough three-hour trek each way. But the new cable car will change that, gliding effortlessly over the rainforest canopy and soaring past mesmerizing waterfalls to a hilltop viewpoint overlooking both coasts. A guided path down to the lake's edge will ensure safety, preventing any accidental plunges.
Spanning 4.2 miles, this will be one of the longest cable car rides globally, using Austrian technology (dominicacablecar.com). Originally planned for late 2025, project head Oswald Graber, a Swiss executive, now predicts full operation by the start of next autumn's cruise season. The site resembles a construction zone, with unstable terrain and high-elevation weather (top station at 2,850 feet) causing delays.
It's an incredibly bold venture, much like the adjacent geothermal power plant set to supply much of the island's electricity from March onward. Revitalizing a place that's been struggling is fantastic, but here's the part most people miss: will this level of investment truly benefit Dominica, or risk overshadowing its raw, unpolished charm?
Spa days and birdwatching bliss
For my final stop, I revisited Dominica's roots in genuine, community-driven tourism. Near the geothermal plant lies Wotten Waven village, nestled in a hilly nook alive with bubbling hot springs. A handful of homespun spas carved into the slopes offer a rustic retreat. I selected Tia’s, a bamboo lodge surveying a petite valley dotted with nutmeg, grapefruit, and cocoa trees.
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Beneath the lodge, a patchwork of sulphurous pools awaits, each at different temperatures. I indulged in a couple of blissful hours soaking away the travel fatigue while observing hummingbirds flitting to the red blooms of the Powderpuff tree (entry £7.50; tiasbamboocottages.com).
As I lounged there, a hopeful thought crossed my mind: may the influx of cable car tourists linger and truly savor Dominica's soul—the Caribbean as it once was, untamed and full of wonder.
Andrew Eames was hosted by Discover Dominica (discoverdominica.com). Sunvil offers a 10-night B&B package from £2,999 per person, flights and car included (sunvil.co.uk).
What do you think? Is pumping up tourism with big projects like the cable car the right way to boost Dominica's economy, or will it strip away its authentic allure? Do you agree that places like this should stay hidden gems, or is sharing them a net positive? Share your views in the comments—I'm curious to hear your take!
